Sunday, October 24, 2010

Our first Meeting with the Maasai

After some last minute shopping in Moshi and some final goodbyes to our team members, we were picked up this morning by Bushmen Expeditions. We had three expedition members accompanying us—Erick (who had been one of our translators over the last two weeks), a driver and a cook. We headed off for Maasai country but first, a quick stop to buy Tuskers, Savanna Dry and some bottled water.

Like many other places where we have travelled, drinking water straight form the tap is a bad idea. We have been drinking bottled water for most of the trip (a 1.5 litre bottle usually costs us about 1,000 Tanzanian shillings~75 cents Canadian). We have had boiled tap water for coffee and tea (and probably in soups) with no side effects, however drinking the boiled water straight—after it has cooled—was not the most enjoyable experience. It usually has a deep, smokey taste, probably because it was boiled over a fire. Many of the team did not like the taste.

One of the many dust devils that we saw
Travelling through Maasai country was very surreal. It was very flat and very dry. The dust was very fine and powdery, about 3-5 inches thick. There were patches of tall, yellow grasses and thorny scrub brushes. Frequently we saw "dust tornadoes" (not sure what they are really called—maybe "dust devils"?) Anyways, we would sometimes see up to four of them across the landscape.


The visions of Maasai tribesmen, dressed in red plaids, walking along the plain with their mass herd of horned cattle, donkeys and goats is forever etched in our minds. It was truly beautiful.

When we reached the tribal area we were surprised to find that many of the young children speak perfect English, yet the elders only spoke Swahili.


Maasai woman sitting in the entrance of her boma
 They brought us to a boma where we were dressed in traditional clothing. They then lead us into some of the bomas to explain to us about the construction of the different houses. The women build the bomas; the men usually stay outside of the compound, tending the herd.

We participated in a traditional dance which we were later told, was used in marriage ceremonies.






The safari operator usually pays a nominal fee to the tribe who is hosting the visit. The guests are also invited at the end of the visit to look at the crafts they have for sale, with the hopes that you will buy something to support them further.

We headed of for lunch at a local restaurant- samosas and omelets—then off to go swimming.

Usually it is recommended that you don't swim in Africa because of possible parasite infection, however we had been reassured by several people that this place would be OK to swim.

A single baobab tree in the distance
We travelled for about an hour through some pretty barren, dry land. The sight of baobab trees in the distance was amazing. Throughout the drive we would come across small "villages" that looked very poor and we wondered how some of them got their water.






The "Hot Springs"


The landscape started changing dramatically. It was like we hit a wall of of lush, green plants and trees. We had arrived at an oasis; our swimming and camping spot.

Eric and the guys set up the tents and then cook went to work. He wore a big, white chef hat and was chopping up veggies for tonights soup (cucumber and leek soup, served hot).

The swimming spot was a small pond that had a swift current (~ 1 to 2 knots) from an underground tunnel coming out of a bordering rock wall. The locals call the place "hot springs". It definitely was not hot, but it certainly wasn't cold either.

Seven local boys showed up and then jumped into the pool. Two of the older ones started swimming into the small tunnel,then let the current shoot them out into the pond. We were pretty scared for them but they didn't seem to think of the danger. As we were swimming monkeys were jumping through the trees overhead.

At one point, some dude drives up on a bicycle with a huge stack of sticks tied to the back of his bike. He was taking to cook for a while, then we noticed a handmade bow and a bunch of arrows leaning up against his bike. Our security guard had arrived and he brought wood for the nights bonfire.

Dinner was amazing! Rice (of course), curried veggies, deep fried tilapia fish, and two other vegetable based dishes.

For desert—sliced, fresh bananas and pineapple.



After dinner, as we were sitting around the bonfire, a large jet flew overhead. One of the guides pointed up to the airplane and said KLM. Our friends were heading home.

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